Saudi Arabia: Destination Report

First Impressions of an
Undiscovered Destination

To enter Saudi Arabia is probably one of the most difficult tasks for any visitor. However, those lucky enough to do business in the Kingdom are able to get a fascinating glimpse of a largely undiscovered tourism destination. Along the Red Sea Coast, a truly unique blend of historical cities, Islamic pilgrimage, Arabian lifestyle and glittering consume temples unfolds.

Jeddah is the gateway of Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea Coast, in the western part of the Arabian Peninsula. The airport represents just about any arrival hall throughout the Middle East: worn, crowded and bureaucratic. Contrary to all expectations, however, formalities are rather straightforward and it does not take very long to start the adventure into the Kingdom. How is Saudi Arabia, the great unknown destination? What does it feel like? In what aspects does it differ from other places?

A Curious Face in Jeddah

The highway leads out of town, northwards along the Red Sea Coast. A first stop incites memories of innumerable places all over the Arab World that are virtually identical: gas station, car repair shops, ATM and a lively array of little shops. Fresh juices are displayed; falafel and sweets are on sale; and people from all over the world are grouped around them, bargaining noisily. Difficult to distinguish where all the expatriate workers come from, whether Bangladesh, Pakistan, Philippines or rather Morocco, Egypt, Syria. In all this confusion, some basic Arabic words go a long way: food is served and it tastes delicious.

The town of Yanbu, around three hours north of Jeddah, is rather unpretentious at present. Physically divided from the petrochemical industrial zone, a large residential district is being created and encompasses the historic city core with the derelict houses. Today, 65.000 people live in Yanbu, but plans are to extend it into a thriving economic and urban centre in the near future. The first shopping mall is already under construction. And infrastructure works in the new and modern city centre as well as at the waterfront with its tourism facilities are well under way.

Impressions of Yanbu

In some corners, a traditional touch of Yanbu is still alive. From the early morning hours on, the bustling fish market presents the abundant treasures from the Red Sea: snapper, tuna, barracuda, octopus and sometimes even a shark. In town, Indian and Pakistani traders sell heavily ornate dresses for women as well as all kinds of kitsch that is even beyond the wildest imagination – made in China.

Fishing Boats at Yanbu Port

Of special interest is the old centre of Yanbu Al-Bahr, once famed for the stay of Lawrence of Arabia in his quest for Arab independence. The economic wealth after the oil boom in the 1970s attracted the former inhabitants to more modern residences in other parts of town and thus, the historic houses became abandoned. The buildings vary in height between one and four stories and are made from coral limestone, palm tree trunks and adobe. Beautifully carved wooden balconies and window shades are remainders of Yanbu’s eventful past as a port and trading post. While some of the neglected houses are still upright, standing indifferently to time and development, others have partially collapsed and lie in rumble. The sea access is now blocked by the new port and a dual carriageway highway.

Historic Houses in Yanbu Al-Bahr

Beautifully Carved Wooden Balconies

Going inland holds a pleasant surprise: the desert is green! After passing the full range of landscapes with sand dunes, black lava stone hills and dreary wasteland, a little side valley opens up and shows irrigation, palm tree plantations and spring flowers – the result of the not-so-unusual winter rainfalls in the desert. In the backdrop, the jagged mountain tops of the Hijaz appear, rough and unapproachable. A fascinating landscape unfolds before the very eyes of the observer, alternating only with small villages that give evidence about the harsh living conditions in former times. An innate sense of adventure makes itself known, wanting to explore more, but it has to be saved for another time: a camel on the road marks the turnaround point of the day’s trip.

Green Desert Landscape against the Hijaz Mountains

The beaches along the coast are largely untouched and extend for many kilometres. Everyone who has been to the Egyptian part of the Red Sea can very well imagine what lies hidden underneath: an incredibly large ecosystem with pristine coral reefs and colourful fisheries that are amongst the world’s best. And every passionate diver is immediately infested with the familiar anticipation of going underwater: deeper, more conscious breathing sets in and the arms engage involuntarily in small, swimming movements. But, like before, this experience will have to wait for another time.

The last day is reserved for Jeddah: only a contained settlement with a minor port until the 1960s, it sparkles today as a lively metropolis of around 3 million inhabitants. Apart from being the gateway to the holy Islamic cities of Makkah and Madinah, Jeddah’s main drawing factor is its extraordinary Corniche. Alternating between eternal summer leisure and eager construction activity, it stretches along 25 km. Specifically geared to Saudi families, the Corniche appears like a huge open-air fun fair: parks, entertainment, boardwalks, restaurants, picnic areas, and cafés, garnished with pink candy floss, peanuts and all kinds of juices. Only the top attraction of Jeddah, the highest water fountain in the world with over 300 m, fails to provide the expected visual delight. For the third day in a row it is not working – highly unusual in an otherwise perfectly functioning surrounding.

"Sail Island" at the Jeddah Corniche

The way leads through the traffic roundabouts, perplexing in size and design, towards the cultural highlight of Jeddah: Al-Balad, the historic centre. On 1.5 km², some of the most remarkable architectonic and urban structures on all of Arabia’s coasts await the interested visitor. The charm in the tiny alleys is captivating: winding streets pass by half-crumbled buildings; hidden squares are filled with the laughter of children in their soccer games; African women without the mandatory face veil darting chattily by. And above all that resound the prayer calls of the muezzins from the surrounding high walls.

The houses themselves are authentic marvels, in their form, appearance and state probably unique in the world. Above the gazing onlooker, they tower up to five storeys high, built to catch the cooling breeze coming in from the sea during the scorching summer months. Some of the houses have been restored in great detail and serve as homes to prosperous families, while others are neglected and inhabited by expatriate workers and their families. As in Yanbu Al-Bahr, the wooden carvings on the balconies and windows are of amazing exactitude and filigree, giving evidence of the wealth of the old port and trader town Jeddah.

The Historic Centre of Jeddah

The souq is a kaleidoscope of Arabian life with an international blend. The inevitable spice mountains spread their olfactory propaganda into every corner of the bazaar. Heated bargaining mixes with leisurely walkabouts; drinking, chatting, working, meeting and eating are all interrelated. Only at certain times of the day, the commercial sanctuaries are hastily covered and everything falls into immovability: the prayer times are sacred to the Saudis and are strictly observed.

Jeddah's Old Souq at Prayer Time

Back to the Corniche, the other face of Jeddah: the most expensive luxury labels of the world present themselves along the roads of the waterfront promenade and tempt the well-known shopping gene of the affluent Saudis. In between are many restaurants and cafés, of course strictly divided: single or groups of men are not allowed to intrude the privacy of the family areas. While this segregation of gender has been successfully enforced over decades by the tradition keepers, they now face the severe challenge of modern times: the blue tooth-equipped mobile phones facilitate a discreet approach between male and female youths, undiscovered by rigorous eyes and ears of the moral guardians.

Tradition and Modernity in Jeddah

After an extensive Egyptian dinner in a lavishly decorated restaurant – the longing look in the direction of the fountain was still not crowned by success – comes the final major hurdle: the drive back through Jeddah to the airport. On a Wednesday night, the day before the Saudi weekend, this can turn into a hell’s ride. The lack of understanding for basic traffic rules is compensated for with heroic speed and intrepid lane changes. 120 km/h on the city freeway turns respectful foreigners into mere traffic obstacles. Quick reactions are a must to cope with the additional difficulty of turning vehicles or stopping buses. But finally, the airport comes into sight, its entrance flanked by the huge gathering areas set aside for the millions of Islamic pilgrims every year.

One last green Arabic coffee in the middle of the night, before the plane takes off over the glittering and pulsating urban sprawl of Jeddah. Despite the apparent conflicts between modernity and tradition – or maybe because of it – it appears impossible to evade the fascination of Saudi Arabia with its unique cultural context, history and society. So before sinking back into the plane seat, a content smile spreads itself on the thought of the next upcoming business trip.


Andreas Hauser